With a few measurements and tools you can hem your jeans like a pro.
Here is a step by step how to.
(Works best with straight cut jeans, you may need additional steps for flare
or boot cut jeans)
Supplies needed: sewing machine, #8 needle, jean-a-ma-jig and a top stitch heavy duty thread
Step 1: Put your jeans on with the shoes you plan to wear them with. Remember that if you are hemming them to flats, they will probably be too short to wear with heels.
Have a friend or family member help you pin them up in the back. Pin the pant leg just 1/4" from touching the ground with shoes on. Unless you have uneven leg lengths, you really only need to measure and pin one.
Step 2: Measure how much the pant leg is pinned up. Measure from where you folded to the end of the pant. You can see in this image mine is 4".
Step 3: Take the measurement you got in step 1 and divide it by 2. My number was 4", so I divide by 2 and get 2". Now adjust the length of where I have my pant pinned up so that it measures 2" from the fold to the stitch line.
Step 4: Iron your new length. This will help to keep your things in place while you sew. You can also pin to keep in place.
*TIP* If you have a rubber mallet, you can use it to pound the jeans where the hem is thick (interior leg seam). A lot like you would when flattening a chicken breast. Give it a few good pounds to flatten that seam out and loosen the fibers a bit before sewing.
Step 5: Take the extension arm off your machine for easier sewing. Start sewing at the flatter inseam, just before the seam line. Make sure that you inseams are flat and the hem seam is lined up with the seam going up the pant leg. Sew right on top of the existing stitch. Make sure as you come around to the second, thicker part of the hem that your seams are lining up.
Step 6: Unless you're sewing on an industrial sewing machine, stop the stitch with the needle down just before the thickest part of the hem.
This tool is available at most any sewing/fabric store. Mine is a jean-a-ma-jig.
Step 7: Place it under the back-end of your presser foot as you approach a thick seam. This enables the foot to level out, instead of running up hill.
Step 8: When you get almost through the thick part, move it to the front so your foot remains level.
Go all the way around the pant leg.
Step 9: If you are hemming your jeans more than 1", surge or cut the excess fabric. If you cut it down, do a zigzag stitch with a #4 or #5 width stitch and set the stitch length to 2. This will stop the jeans from fraying.
(you can see that I didn't cut the excess off in this picture, but made the zigzag stitch for a visual)
Step 10: To top stitch, flip the hem back down and set your presser foot down for the needle to stitch just 1/8" to the left of the new seam.
Use the jean-a-ma-jig again for the thicker seams.
Step 11: Tack the remaining fabric by sewing on top stitched side seams. This will keep the excess fabric from turning down after washing.
Step 12: Iron your new hem.
Make sure you do both legs!
happy sewing!
(Works best with straight cut jeans, you may need additional steps for flare
or boot cut jeans)
Supplies needed: sewing machine, #8 needle, jean-a-ma-jig and a top stitch heavy duty thread
Step 1: Put your jeans on with the shoes you plan to wear them with. Remember that if you are hemming them to flats, they will probably be too short to wear with heels.
Have a friend or family member help you pin them up in the back. Pin the pant leg just 1/4" from touching the ground with shoes on. Unless you have uneven leg lengths, you really only need to measure and pin one.
Step 2: Measure how much the pant leg is pinned up. Measure from where you folded to the end of the pant. You can see in this image mine is 4".
Step 3: Take the measurement you got in step 1 and divide it by 2. My number was 4", so I divide by 2 and get 2". Now adjust the length of where I have my pant pinned up so that it measures 2" from the fold to the stitch line.
Step 4: Iron your new length. This will help to keep your things in place while you sew. You can also pin to keep in place.
*TIP* If you have a rubber mallet, you can use it to pound the jeans where the hem is thick (interior leg seam). A lot like you would when flattening a chicken breast. Give it a few good pounds to flatten that seam out and loosen the fibers a bit before sewing.
Step 5: Take the extension arm off your machine for easier sewing. Start sewing at the flatter inseam, just before the seam line. Make sure that you inseams are flat and the hem seam is lined up with the seam going up the pant leg. Sew right on top of the existing stitch. Make sure as you come around to the second, thicker part of the hem that your seams are lining up.
Step 6: Unless you're sewing on an industrial sewing machine, stop the stitch with the needle down just before the thickest part of the hem.
This tool is available at most any sewing/fabric store. Mine is a jean-a-ma-jig.
Step 7: Place it under the back-end of your presser foot as you approach a thick seam. This enables the foot to level out, instead of running up hill.
Step 8: When you get almost through the thick part, move it to the front so your foot remains level.
Go all the way around the pant leg.
Step 9: If you are hemming your jeans more than 1", surge or cut the excess fabric. If you cut it down, do a zigzag stitch with a #4 or #5 width stitch and set the stitch length to 2. This will stop the jeans from fraying.
(you can see that I didn't cut the excess off in this picture, but made the zigzag stitch for a visual)
Step 10: To top stitch, flip the hem back down and set your presser foot down for the needle to stitch just 1/8" to the left of the new seam.
Use the jean-a-ma-jig again for the thicker seams.
Step 11: Tack the remaining fabric by sewing on top stitched side seams. This will keep the excess fabric from turning down after washing.Step 12: Iron your new hem.
Make sure you do both legs!
happy sewing!
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